Makeup Academy Week 3 by Trisha S.

~Hey Everyone!

Ready for Week 3 of Makeup Academy?

After last weeks outing, it was time to get back to work this week! This week we touched on the concept of corrective contouring. This is the use of cosmetic highlights and contours to change or alter features. Once you master the basic highlighting and contouring techniques you can take these techniques farther to correct features that are not as flattering as others.

We then moved on to face shapes. This was very interesting to me because we learned how to correct facial balance based on shape. Let’s look at the basic shapes and how to correct them.

Oval: longer than it is wide - has good proportion. No correction need.

Oblong: long and slender – almost twice as long as it is wide. Add width with highlights on outer portion of cheeks.

Round: same height and width. Add shadows on cheeks from bottom of cheekbone towards jaw, highlight forehead and chin to make face appear longer.

Square: same height and width – flat across on top and bottom. Add shadows to jaw line and hairline.

Heart: widest around eye and temples – full forehead which narrows to tapered jaw line. Highlight around jaw line and hairline.

Diamond: widest across cheekbones – narrow at forehead and jaw line. Highlight the sides of the jaw line and forehead.

Triangle: widest at jaw line – tapers into narrow forehead. Shade the sides of the jaw to tone down fullness, highlight forehead. Inverted triangle: widest across forehead – narrows to very weak jaw line and pointy chin. Highlight jaw line, shade forehead at the hairline.

A good basic rule is to shade any areas that are wide and full and to highlight any areas that are weak or narrow.

Next we talked about Cheeks! The purpose of blush is to give color variation to the face and direct attention to or away from certain features. There are several forms that blushes come in. The most popular is powder, followed up by cream and liquids. Liquids can be hard to work with and if you don’t have experience, you can end up looking like a doll with those two red circles on your cheeks! Creams are fun and they last all day once you set them with a powder.

There are three parts to your cheek. Inner: From the side of nose to under the iris (avoid this area at all times). Central: Under center of eye outward to arch in eyebrow. Outer: outside edge of the iris to hairline (only use this area to widen the face). Some other areas to avoid are: The base of the nose and too close to the underneath of the eye.

When applying makeup it is important to select a cheek color that matches overall makeup design. If you are wearing a warm blush, you need to have warm colors on the eyes and warm lips. Same for cools; cool blush means cool eyes and lips.

Let’s look at some colors: COOLS: Pinks, Blues, and Purples. WARMS: Orange, Yellow, Gold. BOTH: GREEN – you have your khaki greens which have more yellow which makes them warm and then your blue greens which make them cool. RED – blue reds, like fuchsia, are cool while orange reds and corals are warm. BROWN – there are same browns that are dark and have a purple hue to them, these are cool. Warm browns have more of the yellow or gold hue to them.

Next week we are doing eyes! YAY!! Be sure to check back for that. We will talk about the proper way to apply eyeshadow and blend colors. I will also be doing a simple smoky eye tutorial. See you next time!!

Love,

Trisha